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    <eadheader audience="internal" langencoding="iso639-2" encodinganalog="localchoice" scriptencoding="iso15924" 
        dateencoding="iso8601" countryencoding="us" repositoryencoding="iso15511">
        <eadid countrycode="us" mainagencycode="TxDU">urn:taro:twu:00001</eadid>
        <filedesc>
            <titlestmt>
                <titleproper>Martha Harmon Rountree Chinese Textile Collection</titleproper>
                <subtitle>An Inventory to the Collection</subtitle>
                <author></author>
            </titlestmt>
            <publicationstmt>
                <publisher>Texas Woman's University, </publisher>
                <publisher>The Woman's Collection</publisher>
                <address>
                    <addressline>PO. Box 425528</addressline>
                    <addressline>Denton, TX 76204-5528</addressline>
                    <addressline>Phone: 940-898-3752</addressline>
                    <addressline>Email: Womansc@twu.edu</addressline>
                </address>
            </publicationstmt>
        </filedesc>
        <profiledesc>
            <creation> Rountree,Martha Harmon Chinese Textile Collection 
                <date era="ce" calendar="gregorian">2008</date></creation>
            <langusage>Martha Rountree Harmon Chinese Textile Collection
                <language langcode="eng">English</language></langusage>
            <descrules>Description based on
                <title linktype="simple">DACS</title></descrules>
        </profiledesc>      
    </eadheader>
    <archdesc level="collection" type="inventory" relatedencoding="MARC21">
      
  

    
    <did>
            <head>Overview</head>
            <origination label="Creator:" encodinganalog="100"><persname>Rountree, Martha Harmon</persname>.
            </origination>
        <unittitle label="Title:" encodinganalog="245">Martha Harmon Rountree Chinese Textile Collection</unittitle>
            <unitid label="Location:" encodinganalog="099" repositorycode="TxDU" countrycode="us">Clothing and Textiles 256</unitid>
            <unitdate type="inclusive" label="Date:" encodinganalog="245$f" normal="1964-2007" era="ce" calendar="gregorian">1890 - early 20th century</unitdate>
            <physdesc label="Size:">3 cubic feet, 22 items.
                
            </physdesc>
            <abstract label="Abstract:" encodinganalog="520">Served in the Women Airforce Service Pilots (WASP) of World War II, class of 44-5.
            Roundtree acquired the collection from L.W. Detzer who was a representative of Bethlehem Steel in Manila, Philippines, and his wife, 
            Florence Detzer. Florence Detzer made buying trips to Hong Kong to assemble the collection of historic Chinese textiles. Chinese imperial clothing 
            from the Qing Dynasty period and wedding accessories from the Peranakan Chinese; woven panels, embroidered scrolls, and fabric lengths including Thai silk from 
            Bangkok,
            as well as emboidered silk jewerly boxes. The primary pieces of the collection consist of five women's Chinese robes and five skirts, all semis-formal and of varying colors and styles.</abstract>
            <repository label="Archives" encodinganalog=" ">
                <extref href="http://www.twu.edu/library/woman/index.htm" show="new" actuate="onrequest" linktype="simple">
                    <corpname encodinganalog="110a">Texas Woman's University, <subarea>the Woman's Collection</subarea></corpname></extref>
            </repository>
        </did>
        <bioghist encodinganalog="545">
            <head>Biographical Note</head>
            <p>Served in the Women Airforce Service Pilots (WASP) of World War II, class of 44-5. Mrs.
                Rountree acquired the collection from L. W. . Detzer who was a representative of Bethlehem Steel in Manila, Philippines, and his wife, Florence Detzer. 
                Florence Detzer made buying trips to Hong Kong to assemble the collection of historic Chinese textiles.
            </p>
        </bioghist>
        <scopecontent encodinganalog="520"><head>Scope and Contents of the Collection</head>
            <p>Chinese imperial clothing from the Ch'ing Dynasty period, including women's robes and skirts; wedding accessories from the Peranakan Chinese;
            woven panels; embroidered scrolls; fabric lengths including a Thai silk scarf from Bangkok; and embroidered silk jewelry boxes.</p>
        </scopecontent>
      
        <arrangement>
    <head>Arrangement of the Collection</head>
                <list type="simple">
                    <item>Series 1 : Robes</item>
                    <item>Series 2 : Skirts</item>
                    <item>Series 3 : Peranakan WEdding Accessories</item>
                    <item>Series 4 : Fabric Lengths</item>
                    <item>Series 5 : Jewelry boxes</item>
                    <item>Series 6 : Panels</item>
                    <item>Series 7 : Scrolls</item>
                
                 </list>
        </arrangement>
        <accessrestrict encodinganalog="506">
            <head>Access to the Collection:</head>
            <p>Open for research.        </p>
        </accessrestrict>
        <userestrict encodinganalog="540">
            <head>Publication and Copyright Statements:</head>
            <p>Permission to publish materials must be obtained in writing from the Coordinator
                for Special Collections. Where copyright is unclear, all responsibility must be assumed by the user. </p>
          </userestrict>
        <acqinfo encodinganalog="561">
            <head>Provenance</head>
            <p>Martha Harmon Rountree Chinese Textile Collection was gifted by Martha Rountree</p>
        </acqinfo>
        <processinfo encodinganalog="583">
            <head>Processed/Encoded by:</head>
            <p>Penny Bell 2009</p>
        </processinfo>
  
<dsc type="combined">
           
 <c01 level="series">
               <did>
                   <unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 1: Robes</emph></unittitle>
               </did>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                    
                      
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Purple Robe (semi-formal) (Rountree #10) (C and T 256.1)</emph></unittitle>
                   </did>
                   <scopecontent><p>Purple silk bordace, overlap front closure with five gilded toggles and loops, cuffed sleeves; embroidered in a motif of pale green and 
                   yellow melons, pink and white flowers on tendrils and multi-colored butterflies. Back length 53". [#10]</p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
     <c02>
         <did>
            
             
             <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Teal Short robe (semi-formal) (Rountree #8)(C and T 256.2)</emph>
             </unittitle>
         </did>
         <scopecontent><p>Teal satin lined with pale green damask; knee-length with dies slits, four gilded toggle and loops wtih center closure, cuffed sleeves;
         embroidered in Peking stitch with bats, peonies and other flowers in yellow, pale red, green, and blue appliqued. Back length 40".</p></scopecontent>
     </c02>
     <c02>
         <did>
           
             
             <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Red Satin Short Robe (semi-formal) (Rountree #9)(C and T 256.3)</emph>
             </unittitle>
         </did>
         <scopecontent><p>Red satin lined in green damask, side slits and center 4 gilded toggle-and-loop closure, cuffed sleeves; 
             embroidered in Peking and satin stitch with bats, flowers, and melons in shades of green, red, blue, and orange. Probably a wedding robe.
         Back length 42.75". </p></scopecontent>
     </c02>
     <c02>
         <did>
             
             
             <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Gold / Tan Short Robe (semi-formal) (Rountree #12)(C and T 256.4)</emph>
             </unittitle>
         </did>
         <scopecontent><p>Ivory silk lined in yellow cotton, side slits and showing ju-i scepter; center closure with 4 guilded toggle-and-lops, cuffed sleeves; 
         butterflies embroidered all over the body with narrow black and red borders. Back length 43".</p></scopecontent>
     </c02>
     <c02>
         <did>
           
             
             <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Purple Long Robe (Rountree #15)(C and T 256.5)</emph>
             </unittitle>
         </did>
         <scopecontent><p>Purple damask silk, side slits showing ju-i scepter and side overlap closure with four gilded toggle-and -loops, cuffed 
         sleeves; embroidered border fabric and ribbon of water lilies in white, blue, yellow, pink, and purple and outer Interlocking swastika design border. 
         Back length 53.5".</p></scopecontent>
     </c02>
           </c01>
           
           <c01 level="series">
               <did>
                   <unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 2: Skirts</emph></unittitle>
               </did>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                     
                      
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Gold Skirt (Rountree #30)(C and T 256.6)</emph></unittitle>
                   </did>
                   <scopecontent><p>Gold silk lined in pink silk, composed of two separate panels joined to a 6: white linen waist band,
                   each panel consists of six sections; Peking stitch embroidery of pink peonies, chrysanthemums, and melons in shades of blue, green red, and white.
                   Back length 39".</p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                       
                       
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Yellow Pink Peony Skirt (Rountree #33)(C and T 256.7)</emph></unittitle>
                   </did>
                   <scopecontent><p>Yellow damask silk, lined in pale blue silk, composed of two separate pieces joined to a 7" white linen
                   waist band;skirt is pleated except for front and back panels; embroidered with stylized flowers in vivid pink, purple, and green in peony and
                   butterfly motif. Back length 38".</p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                       
                       
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Peach Skirt (Rountree #27)(C and T 256.8)</emph></unittitle>
                   </did>
                   <scopecontent><p>Peach satin, unlined, composed of two seperate pieces joined to a 3" white waist band, 
                   each pieve consists of a panel and six sections; embroidered with blue satin-stitched flowers in shades of blue, bordered with
                   black ribbon, embroidered with blue swastika geometric design interspersed with white and blue flowers. Back length 35".</p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                      
                       
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Purple Pleated Skirt (semi-formal)(Rountree #K 14)(C and T 256.9)</emph></unittitle>
                   </did>
                   <scopecontent><p>Purple pleated silk, lined in red damask silk joined to a 4" white cotton waist band, each piece consists of multi-colored pleated 
                       sections and a panel; each pleat is appliqued and embroidered in elaborate floral designs and cutwork butterflies. </p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                     
                       
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Woman's Yellow Skirt (semi-formal) (Rountree #31)(C and T 256.10)</emph></unittitle>
                   </did>
                   <scopecontent><p>Yellow silk damask composed of two separate pieces joined to a 6.5" blue cotton waist band, pleated 
                       except for front and back panels; panel embroidery includes scene of three women in garden in green, blue, purple, magenta, 
                       and gold. Back length 38".  </p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
          </c01>
               <c01 level="series">
                   <did>
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 3: Peranakan Wedding Accessories</emph></unittitle>
                   </did><scopecontent><p>Peranakan is the name for descendents of Chinese and Indians in Malaya, Indonesia, and Singapore.
                       Also known as the Straights Chinese.</p></scopecontent>
                   <c02>
                       
                       <did>
                          
                           <unittitle><emph render="bold">Wedding Collar(C and T 256.11)</emph></unittitle>
                       </did><scopecontent><p>Wedding collar ca. 1890. Three-tiered collar with elaborate embroiderey including raised and pillowed
                       symbols; fringed in multi-colored silk thread interwoven with small, silver disks.</p></scopecontent>
                   </c02>
                   <c02>
                       
                       <did>
                           
                           
                           <unittitle><emph render="bold">Wedding Ceremony Knee Pads(C and T 256.12)</emph></unittitle>
                       </did><scopecontent><p>Wedding ceremony knee-pads embroidered in Peking stitch; 
                           central motif is a red lotus flower and two brown deer. Would have been used by a man.</p></scopecontent>
                   </c02>
          </c01>
           
                   <c01 level="series">
                       <did>
                           <unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 4: Fabric Lengths</emph></unittitle>
                       </did>
        <c02>
                          <did>
                              
                               
                              <unittitle><emph render="bold">Scarf, white, yellow, and black woven stripes.(C and T 256.13)</emph></unittitle>
                          </did><scopecontent><p>Scarf, white, yellow, and black woven stripes.  Tag: "Star of Siam. Hand woven pure silk by Amfarco Thailand."
                              Plastic wraplabel: "Star of Siam. Puare Thai Silk. Hand woven in Thailand. Amfarco-Bangkok." 80" x 19.5".</p></scopecontent>
                       </c02>
                       <c02>
                           <did>
                              
                               
                               <unittitle><emph render="bold">Textile, ivory silk with satin woven in fan motif.(C and T 256.14)</emph></unittitle> 
                           </did><scopecontent><p>Textile, ivory silk with satin woven in fan motif. Characters written in selvage. 158" x 27.5".</p></scopecontent>
                       </c02>
                       <c02>
                           <did>
                               
                               
                               <unittitle><emph render="bold">Textile(C and T 256.15)</emph></unittitle> 
                           </did><scopecontent><p>Textile, black silk with woven Chinese Shou design. 108" x 31.5".</p></scopecontent>
                       </c02>
                       <c02>
                           <did>
                             
                               
                               <unittitle><emph render="bold">Textile(C and T 256.16)</emph></unittitle> 
                           </did><scopecontent><p>Textile, sheer gold colored woven silk gauze with bamboo motif. Original tag affixed to one corner. 43" x 44".</p></scopecontent>
                       </c02>
                     </c01>
           <c01 level= "series">
               <did><unittitle><emph render="bold"></emph>Series 5: Jewelry Boxes</unittitle></did>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                       
                       
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold">Padded Box(C and T 256.17)</emph></unittitle> 
                   </did><scopecontent><p>Padded box with attached lid covered with black satin, lined with royal blue satin;
                       top is blue background embroidered with butterflies, and flowery tendrils. 2" x 9.5" x 3.5".</p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
               <c02>
                   <did>
                    
                       
                       <unittitle><emph render="bold"> Box covered in black satin(C and T 256.18)</emph></unittitle> 
                   </did><scopecontent><p>Box covered in black satin, lined with aqua satin; attached lid is white
                   satin embroidered with a brown horse and a white horse under a willow tree bordering an expanse of water. 2" x 9.5" x 3.5".</p></scopecontent>
               </c02>
        
               </c01>
    
            <c01 level= "series">
                <did><unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 6: Panels</emph></unittitle></did>
                <c02>
                    <did>
                      
                        
                        <unittitle><emph render="bold"> Pale blue K'o-ssu silk panel(C and T 256.19)</emph></unittitle> 
                    </did><scopecontent><p>Pale blue K'o-ssu silk panel with Chinese coin and ju'l scepter designs. 30" x 10".</p></scopecontent>
                </c02>
                <c02>
                    <did>
                 
                        
                        <unittitle><emph render="bold"> Ivory K'o-ssu silk panel(C and T 256.20)</emph></unittitle> 
                    </did><scopecontent><p>Ivory K'o-ssu silk panel with Chinese coin and ju'i scepter designs. Tag attached. 14" x 10".</p></scopecontent>
                </c02>
              
            </c01>
    <c01 level= "series">
        <did><unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 7:Scrolls</emph></unittitle></did>
        <c02>
            <did>
               
                
                <unittitle><emph render="bold"> Bird and Flowers Embroidery(C and T 256.21)
                    (C and T 256.22)</emph></unittitle> 
            </did><scopecontent><p>Birds and Flowers Embroidery. Pale purple silk border surrounding an 
                embroidered scene of birds and flowers blued onto a paper backing. Scrolls depict the same scene in reverese. Tung Chih. 23" x 12".</p></scopecontent>
        </c02>
    </c01> <c01 level= "series">
        <did><unittitle><emph render="bold">Series 8: Exhibit Catalogs and Books </emph></unittitle></did>
        <c02>
            <did>
              
                
                <unittitle><emph render="bold"> Catalogs and Books</emph></unittitle> 
            </did>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">An Exhibit of Chinese Imperial Robes and Textiles,</emph>Minneapolis Institute of Arts, 1960.</p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">Chinese Court robes in the Victoria and Albert Museum,</emph>1968. </p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">Chinese Imperial Robes,</emph>Minneapolis Institute of Arts, n.d.</p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">Clothed to Rule the Universe,</emph>Art Institute of Chicago, 2000. </p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">Imperial Robes and Textiles of the Chinese Court,</emph>Minneapolis Institute of Arts, 1943.</p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">Ruling from the Dragon Throne,</emph>John E. Vollmer, 2002</p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p><emph render= "italic">Calder; an Autobiography with Pictures, </emph>Alexander Calder and Jean Davidson, 1966.</p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p></p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p></p></scopecontent>
            <scopecontent><p></p></scopecontent>
        </c02>
    </c01>
      </dsc>
        </archdesc>
  
    </ead>
   