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31st CONGRESS, 1st Session. [SENATE.] Ex. Doc. No. 64.
BREVET LT. COL. J. E. JOHNSTON;
LIEUTENANT W. F. SMITH;
LIEUTENANT F. T. BRYAN;
LIEUTENANT N. H. MICHLER; AND
CAPTAIN S. G. FRENCH, OF Q'RMASTER'S DEP'T.
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REPORTS OF RECONNAISSANCES, &c.
WAR DEPARTMENT,
Washington,
July 23, 1850.
SIR:
In answer to a resolution of the Senate of the 8th ultimo, calling for "copies of the journals of all reconnaissances returned to the Topographical Bureau by officers of the United States making such surveys within the last year, and not heretofore communicated, together with copies of the maps and sketches belonging to said reconnaissances,"&c., &c., I have the honor to submit herewith a communication from the chief of the Togographical Bureau, transmitting the following reports:
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
S. J. ANDERSON,
Secretary of War ad interim.
Hon. WM. R. KING,
President pro tem, of the Senate.
BUREAU OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,
Washington,
July 23, 1850.
SIR:
In conformity with a resolution of the Senate of the 8th ultimo, I have the honor to transmit the following reports:
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Respectfully, sir, your obedient servant.
J. J. ABERT,
Colonel Corps Topographical Engineers
Hon. SAML. J. ANDERSON,
Acting Secretary of War.
SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR,
May 25, 1849.
SIR:
I have the honor to inform you that, in obedience to orders received on the 9th of February last, I left this place on the 12th of that month for El Paso del Norte, via Presidio del Norte and the valley of the Rio Grande-the object of the expedition being to find, if possible, a suitable road for military and commercial purposes from this point to El Paso. Our route lay through Fredericksburg, and thence partly by the old Pinta trail, to the head waters of the south fork of the San Saba river. The road from this place to Fredericksburg being well known and frequently travelled, I shall omit a description of it. From there to the head lake or spring of the San Saba, the distance is about one hundred and six miles, the country well wooded and watered, and requiring but little labor to make a fine wagon road. The approximate latitude of our camp, situated about a mile from the ford of the river, near the mouth of Camp creek, I found to be 30° 53'0".6- From the spring of the San Saba for about fourteen miles, we passed up one of the head-gullies of the river, in which we found five or six water-holes, but were unable to pronounce them permanent. Leaving this point, we ascended to the high table land, and travelled for about one hundred and ten miles in a direction somewhat south of west, without finding even water-holes, and being occupied three days and a night in taking that distance. This portion of the route was mostly
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over the table land, though at times we entered and followed for short distances the head gullies of the San Pedro river. The table land is thinly covered with the mezquite tree; and in the gullies leading to the rivers heading in that portion of the country are occasional clumps of the live oak. Though this country, for the distance of a hundred and twenty four miles, was such as to require no labor in advance of the wagon train, yet the great want of water caused us to consider the route as impracticable, except at the enormous expense of digging wells along it. The water we first struck, after leaving' the head-gullies of the San Saba, was that ,of Live Oak creek, a tributary to the Rio Puerco, or Pecos, and running in a southwest, rly direction. The distance from the first water attainable in this creek to its mouth is but about eight miles. The Peurco is a muddy, swift, and narrow stream, never exceeding forty, and in many places probably not more than twenty five feet in width. The ford by which we crossed the animals appears to be frequently used by the Indians, in their incursions into Mexico. The river here was probably not more than three and a half or four feet in depth, but the velocity of the current was so great that the mules were obliged to swim for a short distance. Leaving the Puerco about forty miles above this ford, the road passes through the table hills to the Ojo Escondido, distant about twenty two miles, in a southwest direction. From this point, for about twenty seven miles, the route is nearly west passing by one large spring, (the Ahuache,) at a distance of about seventeen miles, and reaching the last prairie spring ten Miles further on. From this point to the next permanent water, (a running creek,) the estimated distance is thirty five wiles, though it may be found to be four or five miles less. This creek is followed for a distance of about twenty five miles to the Painted Comanche camp; and here the road to Presidio del Norte passes to the southward and westward, while the road to El Paso del Norte strikes northwestward towards the pass in the mountains on the Rio Grande, striking that river about ninety five miles above Presidio del Norte. The road from this camp may either follow tine creek to its head, passing through the mountains there, or, by leaving the mountains, directly pass along parallel to their western slope, thus obtaining a road with less labor arid less water. The distance from the last water in this chain (the Diablo) to water in the mountains on the Rio Grande cannot exceed thirty-five miles. About twelve miles from the water in these last mountains, the road strikes the river, at a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles from El Paso. After following the river for about seven miles, the road passes through the mountains, which here jut into the river, by the valley of a dry creek, returning to the river by another creek bed, having running water in it. The distance between these points of the river is about thirty miles. Touching the river on coming through this pass, it is necessary to leave it again immediately, passing behind another mountain, striking the river at a distance of thirty two or thirty three miles, the creeks followed having no water in them. From this point of the Rio Grande the mountains and sable land set back from the river, the valley becomes broader, the quality of the soil better, and the quantity of timber greater. From the ford on the Pecos to the creek in the mountains, there is but very little labor required, and that consists in the grading of a few arroyos, and the cutting of some chaparral in the valley of the Pecos. From the running water in this creek, so far as it may be
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followed, more labor will be required, though not sufficient to detain the troops, if the fatigue party could gain a couple of days on them between the Ojo Escondido and the mountains. The next labor is in the valley of the creek leading to the Rio Grande; and the other two passes also require labor, but yet cannot be considered as difficult, the main obstacles being in some places the chaparral, and in others loose stones and rocks, r and two or three arroyos and side hills in each requiring grading and excavation. From the outlet of the last pass to El Paso, the grading of small arroyos, and the clearing of some timber and chaparral, will require but a small fatigue party to keep the troops in motion. The great want of water by the San Saba route caused its, in coming back, to seek a practicable road by the San Pedro river, striking the "Wool road" in the vicinity of the head of the Leona. The route found and suggested crosses the Puerco at the same point as the other, and follows down its left bank for the distance of about twenty miles, then, leaving by one of its branch valleys, passes over the title land in a southeasterly direction, striking the head spring of the San Pedro at a distance not exceeding thirty five miles. The valley of this river may be followed for six or seven miles; and then, leaving the river by its right bank, the road passes along the table land to a point where the river turns to the east. Touching here for water, the table land is again followed to a small creek, distant twelve miles from the bend in the San Pedro. From this creek a southeasterly direction strikes the San Pedro a short distance above its mouth, and, crossing it by an Indian pass, the road crosses the San Felipe, the Pedro, and Toquite, running in a direction south of east to the head of the Las Moras, the distance from the crossing of the San Pedro to the latter point being about fifty miles. From the Las Moras to the head of the Leona the direction is nearly east, and the distance about forty-five miles, the route touching the heads of Elm and creeks, and crossing the Nueces. From the head of the Leona the road may strike the " Wool road" at the nearest point, or at a saving of distance;, and having, in all probability, an equally fine country, intersect it at the Rio Frio, and thence to San Antonio de Bexar. The great difficulty on this lower route, which has heretofore been reported as impracticable, is found in the country between the San Pedro and Puerco rivers. At the point of departure from the latter, the high table lands-a solid mass of limestone-close in, leaving but a narrow valley, and the cañons or ravines leading out are mostly narrow and rocky. The table land once reached, the next difficulty is on the San Pedro, whose valley is narrower than that of the Puerco, while the table hills are of the same character as the others. In some places fine broad cañons, having gentle slopes, lead down to the river; and it is confidently hoped that a further examination will discover others at suitable points for the road. The cañon leading out towards the Puerco from the head spring of the San Pedro, and those at the crossing of this latter river, are not difficult; but as much cannot be said of the intermediate ones, or the one by which we left the Puerco. Taking them, however, at their most, a strong fatigue party, with all the implements necessary to the making of a road over such ground, could, in three weeks, at most, render this portion of the route practicable; and it would seem that the saving of distance, and the comparatively great abundance of water, would give this route great advantages over that by the San Saba, were these difficulties three tunes as great. From the left
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bank of the San Pedro to the intersection with the Wool road, the country is almost entirely the rolling mezquite prairie, and the only obstacles the crossings of one or two creeks, which are somewhat boggy. A scarcity of timber exists on the table land between the San Pedro and Puerco rivers, and from a short distance above the ford on the latter to the pass in the Sierra Diablo, while here even the supply is not abundant. From this point to the Rio Grande there is least of all; but in the valley of this river there is no lack. The estimated distance from San Antonio to El Paso del Norte, by the lower route, is six hundred and forty five miles.
The approximate latitudes of places were determined by me to be:
Before closing this report, I must bear testimony to the invaluable services of our able guide and friend, Mr. Howard. To his accurate knowledge of the portions of the route previously passed over by him, his correct judgment with reference to country with which he was unacquainted, and his advice and address in Indian difficulties, the success of the expedition is mainly indebted.
Respectfully submitted.
WM. F. SMITH,
Brevet 2d Lieut. Topographical Engineers.
Brevet Lieut. Col. J. E. JOHNSTON,
Corps Topographical Engineers.
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS,
July 31, 1849.
SIR:
In compliance with orders received from the commanding general of the 8th department to make a reconnaissance of the country between Corpus Christi and the military post on the Leona, with reference to the practicability of opening a road connecting those two places, I would respectfully submit, through you, the following report and accompanying map for his consideration:
The main points which require to be attended to in the selection of a road through this country are, not only that the route should be as direct as possible, but at all times practicable, and that at convenient distances permanent supplies of water should be obtained. As that section of country the special examination of which was designed consists almost entirely of high rolling prairies, the ascents and descents but slight, and seldom offering any obstacle to prevent the passage of a train of wagons, the first condition can, therefore, be easily fulfilled; and the last govern us. more particularly in a choice.
From an examination of the surveys of the country, a northwest course was concluded upon which direction, with the exception of some few deviations in subsequent parts of this report, was very generally followed.
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On leaving Corpus Christi, I travelled for twenty two miles the route from that place to San Patricio, a small village on the Nueces. This road is on the west bank of the last river, heading its principal bends: it runs over a high rolling prairie, with the exception of one or two sand flats, each two or three wiles in length.
The prairie is covered with fine mezquite grass, and interspersed with mezquite trees and live-oak moats.
Limestone formation extends throughout this section of the country. Water was sufficient for all travelling purposes, but not for agricultural, the banks of the river being too high to favor irrigation. At the "Twelve mile Mot" the road first touches the Nueces. The river water is fresh and palatable for the first time at this point about six miles from its mouth, and twelve from the entrance to the Nueces hay. Previously we passed three very large salt ponds or lakes, but so slightly brackish that the animals drank freely from them. At Baranca Blanca, six miles further on, we again strike the Nueces, at which place water can be obtained. At the distance of six miles from this place is a large pond of fresh and permanent water, very near and to the right of the road. A large flat, covered with sedge grass, commences here, and extends to the river. At the lake we left the grain road to the right, and a west northwest course strikes a second large lake of fresh water near an old settlement, now destroyed, called Le Partie Land distance, six miles. In dry weather this flat offers no objection to a good road; and in wet weather a good one can be made along a ridge bordering it, lengthening the distance but by a few miles. The bottom consists of a heavy black earth, but not of a "hogwallow" nature. At Le Partie Land, the road again rises upon a high rolling prairie, over which it is continued until it intersects the Nueces. At two miles from the last water it passes within two or three hundred yards of the river, and a convenient gully enables you to reach the water's edge. Still pursuing the same course, in eight miles we next arrived at Casa Blanca, or White House, the ruins of which alone mark the spot of this once flourishing rancho. It is situated on a slight eminence, at the base of which there is a creek, named Carresse; it is a running stream, but consists of large holes of good water, permanent and fresh, abounding in fine trout and other fish. The house is about a mile and a half froth the river. The country around is beautiful, and admirably adapted for grazing. Occasionally, upon a near approach to the Nueces, you meet with some heavy sand hills, but which can generally be avoided by taking a slightly circuitous route; but generally a hard beaten road can be obtained. The wood is still the mezquite and live oak.
Between Casa Blanca and Nueces several fine streams were crossed; from Casa Blanca to La Gorta, six miles; from La Gorta to Radamenia, two miles; from Radamenia to Spring creek, thirteen miles; from Spring creek to Nueces, fourteen miles. At the point where we struck the Nueces, a splendid rocky ford was found. As we approached the river, the prairie made a gradual descent to its bank, the edge of which was about twenty feet above low-water mark. The bank was of an almost pure limestone, easily worked; the descent to the water's edge not precipitous, having been able to lead our horses down it with ease. There was no river bottom land to pass through Perfectly clear prairie, free from all umber, bordering immediately upon the river at this point. Above and below, at a short distance from, the ford, the timber in the bottom was
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heavy and thick, consisting of the elm, cottonwood, oak, &c., and covered with a dense growth of weeds. The bed of the ford was of solid limestone, and of sufficient breadth for several wagons abreast.
The width of the river was about forty yards its depth, at the time of low water, not more than two or three feet; for, notwithstanding there was a considerable rise in the river at the time I crossed it, still the horses were not compelled to swim more than three or four yards of its entire width. The current was not swift, and in consequence would afford no obstacle to fording it with safety. On the eastern shore the bank was but five or six feet above low water mark, and forming a solid footing.
On this side there was but a narrow strip of heavy timber and bottom land, about twenty yards in width, and then you rise to a mezquite flat. A better and more convenient ford in every respect could not be found; for miles up and down the river, no point could be selected possessing these advantages.
Here we saw huts and other signs of Indian encampments, showing that the experience of those acquainted with almost every foot of ground in the country had led them to make the same choice.
The water of the Nueces here presents a muddy appearance, contrasting greatly with the clearness of its water at the crossing of the Wool road. It is pleasant to drink, notwithstanding the earthy matter it holds in solution. On leaving this river, we followed a north-northwest course, to strike the Frio at its nearest point, to enable us to examine the nature of it; in eight miles from the Nueces we reached it. It will be seen from the map that, in order to accomplish this examination, our course was constantly changed until we crossed the Laredo road, occasioned by following to an extent the principal bends of the river.
The mezquite flat through which we passed on first leaving the Nueces proved to be about a mile in width, when we came to a beautiful valley, perfectly clear, and covered with fine nutritious mezquite grass. Continued along this valley to the dividing ridge of high land between the two rivers which headed it. The banks of the former river, at the point at which we approached it, were vertical, about forty feet high, but free, for a short distance, from timber. Already, two large water holes and a creek of good water had been passed in the last eight miles, continuing along the ridge which remained in sight of the Frio, heading its principal bends, and never more than three or four miles from it. This ridge was a perfect dead level prairie, covered with excellent grass and mezquite trees. At intervals the ridge would pass within fifty or a hundred yards of the river, and at such points the water could be easily reached, being generally free from bottom timber. At four miles from first point, touched the Frio a second time; at ten from the latter place, a third time; and at each place could water the horses with ease. Between the last two points found two creeks of excellent water, the water standing in holes. Upon examining the bottom land of the Frio, we found it difficult to penetrate, very heavy timber being generally found close to the river, of the same description as on, the Neuces; then, from one to two miles, a thick undergrowth of chaparral, together with mezquite and cactus of every description. On leaving third point, found it difficult to proceed near the river; besides bottom land, found deep ravines and gullies, and large hews, impossible to pass in their present state. For the first tune we encountered ranges of hills, setting into the river in a direction perpen.
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dicular to its course. The distance between them is generally a mile from base to base, extending but a short distance back into the country, and then gradually merging into the high prairies between the rivers. They approach to within a mile of the river, and then abruptly break off in the form of a pair of steps, and are covered with loose stone, and almost impassable chaparral. Upon examination, we found our hitherto circuitous route, since leaving the Nueces, could he easily avoided by pursuing a due west course from the ford, upon the high ridge already spoken of, until within two miles of the Laredo road, and then again resuming a northwestern course. Distance from third point to a fine creek, three miles from the road, twelve miles. In addition to this creek, we had already passed four others, at very nearly equal distances from each other one a running stream, but the rest consisting of large water holes.
The examination of the Frio caused the principal deviation in our course: in consequence, I decided upon avoiding the crossing of that river, notwithstanding a more direct course between the two limits of the road would have required its passage twice.
This stream is, at certain seasons, subject to tremendous freshets. Its banks, within miles of the first point at which the road should cross it, are almost vertical, and between forty and fifty feet in height; its bed of a boggy nature, and consequently unfit for a ford. At the second point, you meet with three or four large hews before reaching the natural bed of the river; and it would require great labor to make a passable ford. By keeping on the west bank of this river, you can avoid all these obstacles thus leaving the Neuces, over which the road is compelled to cross, the only river on the route subject to freshets. As a general thing, I may here remark concerning the land both on the Frio and Leona, from these rivers back, that it may be divided into four parallel strips
Our course after leaving the last mentioned creek was north northwest, intersecting the Laredo road about three Miles from its ford on the Frio. Travelling on, we passed over, or rather continued on, the same level prairie, and at thirteen miles from the Laredo road again touched the river.
About four miles from the same road, passed an excellent stream of watercourse from fourth point of Frio northwest; but soon, on attempting to follow it, we found ourselves in a dense chaparral. After riding an hour land finding no prospect of its becoming better, we struck due west, and in two miles again reached a fine rolling prairie, which extended as far as the eye could reach; arid we were then able to pursue without difficulty our former course.
Soon we struck on an Indian trail, and for many miles we followed it, as its direction was the same. It led us to the crossing of many creeks, where we found a large supply of water one at six, and another at twelve miles from where we last touched the Frio, and others at intermediate
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distances. At the last creek, we left the trail, as it apparently seemed to turn towards the Nueces. Continuing on eight miles further, we crossed a large creek, emptying into the Frio. On its banks seemed to have been at one time a regular camping place for Indians, as we there found many deserted stone buildings, evidently built by Indians for a permanent camping-ground. From this creek our course was still the same, and still over a high rolling prairie, from one to four miles from the river. When within sight of the junction of the Frio and Leona, and about five miles from the mouth of the latter stream, we again touched the Frio for water, having gone a distance of ten miles without meeting with any. The nature of the bottom land here the same. Resuming again our old trail, we continued on for several miles, and then met a hard beaten Indian trail, which guided us to an excellent gravel ford, about the point we wished to cross the Leona, fourteen miles from the upper Presidio road. Within a mile of reaching the ford, there was a dense chaparral, but, owing to the trail, we were easily enabled to reach it. The Leona is a beautiful stream of excellent water limestone. The banks are nearly upon a level with its surface. It possesses a hard gravel bottom its width about thirty, arid its depth not more three feet, arid flowing with a gentle current. It is said never to rise above its present level the stream riot being of sufficient length to be affected by heavy rains. The land immediately along the river is rich, and covered with heavy timber. A few hundred yards below the ford are fine falls, arid the river trot more than twelve feet in width. Immediately upon leaving the ford, you find yourself in a beautiful mezquite flat also a favorite camping place of the Indians. We still followed the trail, which led us through the finest portion of the valley between the Leona and Frio. This valley, for the first ten miles, is about a mile wide, and bounded by low chaparral hills those on the east side of the Leona commencing a short distance above the ford, and continuing, except at some few intervals, the whole length of the Leona to its head; and it is difficult to make your way through them.
Within four miles of the upper Presidio road the valley widens, and is sixteen miles in width along that road.
Gradually becoming more elevated, it spreads out into a high flat prairie, and extends on unbroken until it rises into the range of hills which stretch across from the Frio miles above the head-springs of the Leona. Along the Wool road the prairie is but about eight miles in width.
A good dry weather road can be obtained over it, but, like all prairie roads, would become heavy in very wet weather. Two miles below the upper Presido road, found a large water hole, and also one above it, at the distance of five or six miles. Between this last creek and the Wool road no other permanent water can be found, although, at convenient points, the river could be approached, and roads cut into it, to supply every demand. The distance between the , upper Presidio and Wool roads is about thirty miles. Owing to the greater quantity and greater density of the chaparral along the Leona, a great deal of labor can be avoided by keeping nearer to the Frio than to the Leona. Our course intersected the Wool road about four miles from the post a branch from this road
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leading to the post situated above it. For the sake of reference, the following list of distances between water is subjoined:
| From Corpus Christi to Twelve-mile Mot | 12 |
| Baranca Blanca | 6 |
| Lake | 6 |
| Le Partie Land | 6 |
| Casa Blanca, or Carresse | 8 |
| La Gorta (creek) | 6 |
| Radamenia (creek) | 2 |
| Spring creek | 13 |
| Ford on Nueces | 14 |
| 1st point on Frio | 8 |
| 2d point on Frio | 4 |
| 3d point on Frio | 10 |
| Creek | 12 |
| Laredo road | 3 |
| 4th point on Frio | 13 |
| Creek | 6 |
| Creek | 6 |
| Indian Camp creek | 8 |
| 5th point on Frio | 10 |
| Ford on Leona | 16 |
| Upper Presidio road | 14 |
| Wool road | 30 |
| Post on Leona | 4 |
From Corpus Christi to the military post on the Leona, two hundred and seventeen miles, by the route travelled during this reconnaissance. From the examination, we found that in several places the course travelled was somewhat longer than the length of the road would necessarily be, in consequence of leaving it to further our knowledge of the country; but twenty miles would easily cover such deviations. The only labor necessary to complete the road consists in freeing it from timber; and all of tide latter placed together would not cover a distance of six miles to be cleared.
In conclusion, I may remark that the country passed over offers every facility for opening a good road; and, with comparatively little labor, communication can be had between the two places by any mode of conveyance. With the exception of a few settlements near Corpus Christi and San Patricio, you meet with none for the whole distance, and, in consequence, can obtain nothing along the road beyond the wild productions of nature.
There was an abundance of game wild cattle and deer in numbers. Most of the creeks and rivers abounded in fish of different varieties-the trout in greatest, abundance.
Whilst at Corpus Christi, I visited St. Joseph's island, and attempted the sounding of Aransas pass. Owing to the heavy swells from the gulf, was riot able to accomplish the purpose with satisfaction; but from this, and a previous attempt in January last, the depth of water to be relied upon in passing over this bar may be set down at ten feet. Lamar, on Aransas bay, is the only point to which a vessel able to cross this bar can approach and be close to the shore. At this place a shell reef runs out from shore; and at its extremity nine feet water can be obtained, so that
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a plank may be thrown from the ship to the reef. Aransas pass is evidently improving and becoming deeper a greater body of water being thrown through it in consequence of several other passes connecting this bay and gulf becoming gradually closed.
Respectfully, sir, your obedient servant,
N. MICHLER, Jr.,
Brevet 2d Lieut. Top. Engineers.
Major GEO. DEAS,
Assistant Adjutant General 8th Military Department.
CAMP AT LAS CRUCITAS, ON Rio GRANDE,
October 3, 1849.
SIR:
I have the honor to report that, in obedience to your orders, I proceeded, September 21, from the camp opposite El Paso, with the escort designated, to make a reconnaissance of the Sacramento mountains, and ascertain if there existed a pass through them practicable for wagons. Leaving camp at 2 p. m., and taking the Salt Lake road, the day following I reached the Arroyo Solidad, the first water from the Rio Grande estimated distance thirty-eight miles, and general. direction north 4° east. This creek rises the Sierra Solidad, its head spring being about one mile distant from my camp, and was represented by the guides as being generally dry, except at the spring. The next water on the road (which I still followed) was that of the Ojo de San Nicolas, distant twenty one and a half miles, in a direction slightly east of north. From this point, leaving the wagon road, I followed a large Indian trail to the Cañon del Perro, the nearest point of the Sierra Sacramento distance thirty two miles; course north 69" 45' east. This cañon furnishes a fine supply of water, but is so narrow and rough that the Indian trail, in place of following it, leads directly over the mountain. Passing along parallel to the base of the mountain, as near as the rocky spurs would admit, I crossed a small running creek, distant ten miles from the Cañon del Perro, and reached the creek " El Agua de Nuestra Señora de la Luz," nine wiles beyond. The general direction from cañon del Perro was north 10° 10' west. The cañon from which this creek flowed was but little wider than the first one mentioned, and, at the distance of one and a half miles from its mouth, branched into two narrow ravines. From this creek I followed the base of the mountain for six miles, in a direction north 15° west, and arrived at the entrance' to what was said by the guides to be a pass through the mountains. A ride of two and a quarter miles, in a direction about north 73° east, brought me into the narrow, rocky valley of a salt creek. Finding that there was no pass here, I made my way out of the hills by travelling down the bed of the creek for about two miles, and them taking an Indian trail leading off to the northeast, across several spurs and intermediate valleys; at the distance of five miles, entered the valley of La Cienegu a marshy creek flowing between the Sierra Sacramento and Blanca. The width of this valley was about. five miles; but the great number of small spurs putting out on either side from the mountains to the banks of the creek would cause a considerable amount of labor to be laid out on them before being practicable for wagons. About seven and a half miles above the point of entrance into the valley, the creek forked one branch coming in from the southeast, and the other front the
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north of east. I first examined the left branch; but the. difficulties encountered in a distance of three miles, and the appearance of the valley ahead, where it became narrow and rugged, caused me to retrace my steps, and attempt the valley of the other branch. Crossing the left branch with great difficulty, I found, after a mile's travel in the second valley, that it possessed no advantages over the first, and started for the Rio Grande. The portion of the Sierra Sacramento to the south of the Cañon del Perro I did not examine, for the reason that the guides informed me that there was neither water nor a country practicable for wagons. On my return, after arriving at the Salt creek, I left the trail made in going up, passed below the running water of "E1 Agua de Nuestra Señra de to Luz," and struck for the southern point of an extensive range of white sand hills, situated in the middle of the immense valley lying between the Sierra Sacramento and the mountains near the Rio Grande. This course (south 39° 30' west) led by a brackish spring, and about one mile and a half to the right of Salt lake. From the sand hills to the Ojo de Ste. Nicolas, the course was south 53° 30' west, and distance sixteen and three quarter miles. Agreeably to orders, on leaving the Arroyo Solidad, I entered the valley of the Rio Grande by the "Paso de los Alamitos," a broad elevated valley connecting the Salt Lake and Rio Grande valleys, and presenting no obstacle to the passage of wagons between the two. The distance from the Arroyo Solidad to the point of the Rio Grande about thirty miles above the rancho opposite El Paso, is about twenty one miles, and the direction south 30° west.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
W. F. SMITH,
Lieutenant Topographical Engineers.
Captain J. E. JOHNSTON,
Top. Engineers, Brevet Colonel U. S. A.
SAN ANTONIO,
December 1, 1849.
COLONEL:
I have the honor to report that, in obedience to orders from headquarters, 8th military department, of June 9, 1849, I left this city, with a party of thirty men, for El Paso del Norte, via Fredericksburg.
June 14, 1849, first day. Made fourteen miles to a waterhole, where we bivouacked for the night. Country from San Antonio to this place is a rolling prairie, having abundance of mezquite grass, which affords excellent pasturage for horses and other stock ; road, in many places, lies over limestone rock, which makes it rough and injurious to wagons Country somewhat hilly, and covered with clumps of live oak and other timber.
June 15, second day. Country of the same character as yesterday, except that the hills are higher and more frequent. The road, too, is more rocky and uneven; hills on the left lie quite close to the road. Leaving Misenbergs, the road is still rocky and uneven; on the left hand is a deep ravine with bluff banks. After passing the Cibolo, four miles from Misenbergs, the road becomes very good, being smooth and level. The Cibolo, where the road crosses it, is a dry ravine. About two miles above there is plenty of pure water. Stretches of prairie, with groves of live oak, occur at intervals. Reach Post Oak springs at 11.5 a. m., and encamp. The springs are to the right of the road, and in the flats.
June 16, third day. Left camp at 8 o'clock this morning, and marched
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about two miles from Post Oak springs; passed between two ranges of hills forming quite a gorge. Country around is beautiful, consisting alternately of rolling prairie and flats, which latter are at times boggy, and difficult for loaded wagons. Next stream is Spring creek, the water of which is beautifully pure and clear, flowing over a pebbly bed. Limestone occurs on its banks; timber of large size is also found in the immediate vicinity. Country from this creek to the Sabinal is a rolling prairie, with many clumps of trees. The road at Sabinal becomes very difficult, the sides of the ravine through which the creek flows being very steep and stony. At three miles from Sabinal, we passed Wasp creek, through the same kind of country, except that the hills are higher. Many flats occur in the intervals, covered with a luxuriant growth of mezquite grass and wild rye. The crossing at Wasp creek was very difficult, the wagons all stalling, and obliging us to double teams. Country continues the same to Guadalupe river, a distance of four miles. Passed the Guadalupe and marched half mile further to Sisters creek, where we encamped at 3 o'clock.
June 17, fourth day. From Guadalupe river to Fredericksburg, the country continues of the same character, being an alternation of prairie and post oak woods. The grazing, either on the prairie or in the woods, is excellent, and very abundant. Sisters creek crosses the road several times within seven miles from Guadalupe river. At ten miles from camp, we entered a beautiful valley, the ascent from which was quite steep. There is a trail leading to the right across the mountains, which shortens the distance to Fredericksburg considerably, but is entirely impracticable for wagons or any wheeled vehicle. Grape creek crosses the road twice within half a mile, at the distance of thirteen miles from our camp of last night. Country is well wooded, and grazing abundant. The Peidernails next occurs, at seven miles from Grape creek, and five from Fredericksburg. There is a small stream of water midway between these two. Arrived at Fredericksburg at 3 p. m.
June 21, eighth day. We were obliged to remain at Fredericksburg three days, in order to repair our wagons, which were somewhat out of order. These repairs completed, we left on Thursday, and marched eight miles to our encampment on Banon's creek. The course on leaving town was north 25° west; it afterwards changed to 10° west. The road is very good, being the one travelled to the German settlements on the Llano. The country is beautiful, well wooded and watered.
June 22, ninth day. Marched about nine miles to Pecan spring, which touches the road on the left. The country continues of the same character, with plenty of wood and water. Leaving Pecan spring, we entered a deep valley, through which the road wound. The descent was abrupt, but easily passed. Granite begins to appear at this place, along with pieces of quartz. Passed several places where there appear to have been large bodies of water during the rainy season. The beds of such ponds are of sandstone, in large masses. Road near camp lies over a reddish sand. Encamped in a post-oak grove at 11 a. m. Course today, north 10° west.
June 23, tenth day. Marched about four miles this morning to the place where the emigrant trail leaves the road to the settlements on the Llano. In this distance there were two places unfavorable to the passage of wagons, but not sufficient to cause much difficulty. Water appears,
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but it is not permanent. The emigrants' road to the west is plainly discernible over the prairie. The country through which it passes is varied sometimes open prairie, the post oak country, and the hilly. We passed. several places where water was standing in quite large pools, but it is not permanent. The soil. over which we passed was light and sandy, and in several places of a red color. Granite occurs in several places, in large masses. Arrived at the Llano about one o'clock, and found the river so high as to be impassable for the present. Encamped about twelve miles above the German settlements.
June 24, eleventh day. Started this morning at nine o'clock, and forded the river without difficulty, it having fallen during the night and morning about two feet. The banks on each side are rough, rocky, and precipitous, and difficult of ascent and descent. After leaving the Llano, the road is very good to Comanche creek, which is easily crossed. This creek affords good water, and it is a permanent running stream. From Comanche creek, the road lies over the same kind of country rolling prairie and hills to the head of Honey creek, where we camped at 4 o'clock.
June 25, twelfth day. Left camp this morning at 8 ½o'clock. The road here was between two ranges of hills Those on the left (west) are extremely rocky and precipitous. Road continues level and good for about three miles, when it runs through a gap between two hills, from the top of which the Lammeding country can be seen for a great distance. It afterwards passed for nine miles over an alternation of hills and prairie, till we left it. After leaving the road, we marched north 20° west three miles to the San Saba, The country for these three miles was hilly, and covered with large slabs of limestone. The banks on the south side of the San Saba slope gradually to the water, which is about eighteen inches deep, flowing over large slabs of limestone rock. On the north side the banks were steep, and of soft earth, rendering the passage difficult. We were obliged to cut away the bank in order to pass.
June 26, thirteenth day. Detained in camp to a late hour today by violent rain. At eleven we started, and marched about five miles to the head of Camp creek, where we halted for the day. Next water is Brady's creek, fifteen miles further on; no reliable water in the interval. We have now left the road, and follow the Indian trails whenever the direction coincides with our own. Ground over which we pass is very rough, and similar to that on the other side of the river. Several places on the road appear to have had water in them; there was a little when we passed. The beds of these places were of rotten limestone, which was very abundant on the hills. Water of Camp creek is good and abundant.
June 27, fourteenth day. Country today was a high and beautiful prairie, easily travelled over, so that a road could be had in any direction. the wood was mezquite, affording fuel merely; grazing good. Many dog towns appear, with their inhabitants, prairie dogs and rattlesnakes. Arrived in camp at 4 o'clock, on Brady's creek.
June 28, fifteeth day. Left south fork of Brady's creek this morning at 6 o'clock, and marched through a beautiful country to the head waters. The road from the San Saba to the bead of the creek is through a prairie covered with scattered mezquite and mezquite grass. There is abundance of wood for culinary purposes, and the grass abundant and good for grazing. The water in Brady's creek, at the head, and in the south
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branch, is in large pools, extending sometimes to the length of a mile or more, and having a depth of six or eight feet. The country is level, of great elevation, and can be travelled over with wagons in any direction. The waters of the creek furnish large quantities of catfish.
June 29, sixteenth day. Started this morning at 6 o'clock; taking a trail leading to the west. After marching about eight miles, we arrived at the head springs of the creek. Our course was then west for thirteen miles, when we struck Kickapoo creek at 3 o'clock. The country between Brady's creek and Kickapoo is most admirably adapted for a natural road; not a single place where ten minutes' work is needed. Our whole route was over an open, level mezquite prairie, requiring nothing but travelling to make a road in any direction., The timber is mezquite only enough for cooking. The grazing was excellent. We passed one or two small runs of water not permanent. Dog towns and rattlesnakes abounded most of the way. The Kickapoo is a large stream of good, clear water, opening out occasionally into large pools, from which we obtained catfish and trout in abundance. The grazing was excellent and abundant. The timber on the banks was of large size, consisting of live oak and pecan.
June 30, seventeenth day. Left camp this morning at 6½ o'clock, and crossed the Kickapoo without any difficulty, beyond cutting out the brush. Country becomes hilly, stony, and barren, being a succession of gentle elevations and depressions, covered with broken pieces of limestone. We had hills to the south quite near us. Those to the north of the Concho were also visible. In several places the grazing seemed very good; but there was an almost total absence of anything like timber. We passed Potato spring at two and a-half miles from Kickapoo. Reached Lipan creek at 12 o'clock, and made our camp. The water here is running, and, like the Salado, near San Antonio, opens out into large pools. It is of good flavor and pure. Timber of pecan and live oak, and very heavy. Struck Lipan creek to the right of the trail, which we followed, and which we suppose to be Torrey's.
July 1, eighteenth day. Left Lipan creek at 6 o'clock, crossed it without difficulty, and came to Antelope creek. Still following the trail, we went through "Pass in mountains." The country is high, rolling, and stony, except in valleys, where there is excellent mezquite grass. A road can be easily made here by removing the loose stones from before the wagons no other labor being necessary, except clearing away weeds and bushes whenever a stream is to be passed. Spades to cut away the banks have not been used since we crossed the Sari Saba. Timber on the batiks of this creek is pretty large; grazing is good. Course today, north 10° west, and west.
The road yesterday and today should probably bend more to the northwest, in order to get further into the valleys, and avoid the stony ground over which we have passed. Both yesterday and today, the waters on which we encamped furnished very large fishcatfish, trout, and perch. Rattlesnakes and prairie dogs continue in abundance. After leaving Kickapoo creek, marched about three miles southwest towards its head; then struck northwest. The road before reaching Kickapoo is over prairie, with scarcely any stones.
July 2, nineteenth day. Left camp this morning at 5½ o'clock. Country continues the same as yesterday an alternation of gentle elevations
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and depressions, caused by spurs from the mountains on the south of the Concho. There is an almost total absence of timber; now and then there is a solitary live oak, and to the right may be seen some scattering mezquite. Today and yesterday, our course bore for the Green mounds, which have been in sight, north 5° west. At five miles from camp, carne to the South Concho quite a large stream, with a gentle current. Crossed here easily, after clearing the brush from the banks. Still continuing west for eight miles, we crossed Dove creek. Crossing effected without any difficulty, after cutting out the brush from its banks. Both of these streams have heavy timber immediately on their banks, but no further. The water of both is good and runs gently, in a northern direction. Grazing is only tolerable, the grass being old and dry. Pecan timber of large size is found.
July 3, twentieth day. Left our camp on Dove creek this morning at 6 o'clock, and rode about three miles to a small branch, which crosses the trail. This was Good Spring creek; the water was pure and very cold. Our course now is due west, occasionally diverging from it to avoid a spur of the hills, or to head an arroyo. The line forming the Pass in mountains and Green mounds is due east and west. From the half way point between Dove creek and Lipan Camp creek, the twin mountains bear north 45° east. Pass in mountains bear west from Brady's creek (ahead). These two are landmarks scarcely mistakeable. Arrived today at the main Concho about 3 o'clock. The country at Green mounds rocky and broken, but did not offer much difficulty to the passage of wagons. After passing Green mounds, the country becomes rolling prairie. The grass all along our route to-day and yesterday appeared dry and burnt up, offering but little sustenance to our animals. We fell in, on the banks of the Concho, with the emigrant road to California, which we expected to find at the Green mounds. It lies to the south of Green mounds.
July 4, twentyfiirst day. Marched three miles today, merely to change camp and find; good grazing for the mules.
July 5, twenty second day. Started this morning at 7 o'clock, and got into camp on the banks of the Concho at 1 o'clock. Crossed the river at nine miles from camp of this morning. It runs here in a northeast direction. One mile further, crossed the north fork of the Concho. At four, six, and fourteen miles from camp, we crossed deep arroyos, running north into the Concho ; these, however, presented no difficulty.
At the Green mounds this road was visible to us; but as it was to the south of us, we continued on the trail we were following until we arrived on the Concho, where the wagon-road is deeply marked on the prairie. The river is reached at seven miles from Green mounds, but the road follows the southern and eastern bank for twelve miles before crossing. For the last two days wood has been very scarce; grazing only tolerable, grass being parched and dry. The water of the Concho is good, affording catfish, trout, &c.
July 6, twenty third day. Road today continues hard and excellent, having hills on both sides. Here rocks appear statified, as also at Kickapoo creek, strata varying from six to eighteen inches in thickness;, rocks are limestone. Today, came to the head of the river; it rises in a Valley between two ranges of hills, in low, swampy ground, appearing in pools, covered with leaves like those of lotus plants. Grazing here is pretty good; some timber to be had at a distance from the water.
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July 7, twenty fourth day. Left head of Concho this morning at 7 o'clock, and travelled twenty miles over a hard, smooth, and level road to this place, where there are two water-holes of large size. Country over which the road lies is situated between two ranges of hills of small elevation, and is extremely destitute of wood. For the first nine miles there was plenty of water standing in holes, but not permanent; after that there was none until we came to camp. The country is extremely dry; grazing very indifferent.
July 8, twenty fifth day. Came today twenty two miles to the Wild China ponds, which were entirely dry. Hills and mountains appear on our left and in front; country around us rolling prairie; no water today, and obliged to camp without it. Five miles from our camp of yesterday morning, Connelly's trail leaves the road, bearing to the southwest. There is, probably, abundance of water at these water-holes during the rainy seasons; the ground about them is soft, moist, and springy, offering a chance for finding water at no great depth. Today and yesterday, saw large droves of mustangs. Soil today is light and sandy; grazing good, but no wood.
July 9, twenty sixth day. Arrived in camp on the Pecos river at 1 o'clock today, having left the Wild China ponds at four this morning. At Gap water, in the Caette mountain, thirteen miles from camp, we found a little dirty and brackish water, which sufficed to water our mules, but was unfit for any other purpose. The road runs through a pass in the mountain; this pass is very winding, and goes down very deep into the mountain, the rocks rising to several hundred feet above it. The road through this place was cleared for us by California parties which had preceded us, so that our wagons came through without difficulty. Between Wild China and Caette mountain, high mountains appear to the south and southwest. Leaving Caette mountain, the road passes over an exceedingly barren country, sandy, and producing scarcely anything but prickly pear. This continues to the Pecos, which is not visible until you come directly upon it, its banks not being marked by trees or anything different from the surrounding plains. To the southwest, high mounds and table lands appear. The road bears to the southwest, crossing many large Indian trails, all of which bear southwest.
July 10, twenty seventh day. Spent today in crossing the Pecos, which was accomplished by making a raft of spare wagon-tongues and hounds, floated by empty water-casks. Everything was thus safely taken over. The Pecos here is a muddy stream, of a dark red color, and, running through the plains, has very much the appearance of a canal. The prairie does not change in appearance in the least as you approach the river, and one is immediately on the river before he is aware of its proximity. The crossing which we used is known as the "Horse head crossing" no doubt from the number of horses' heads which lie scattered near. The soil here is very light, like ashes, and a camp soon becomes intolerable especially in windy weather. Grass here is coarse and hard, and appears to have but little nourishment. There is no wood at all to be had. The banks where we crossed were low, and tolerably firm; but this must be the case only in dry weather. In other places where we approached the water, horses sunk to the girth in the boggy soil, which was of most tenacious clay.
July 11, twenty eighth day. Spent today on the west bank of the Pecos, in order to give men and animals some time to recruit. Soil on
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this side same as on the other, being very light and dry, and moved into clouds of dust by every breath of wind. The grazing is somewhat better than on the eastern bank, but still only tolerable.
July 12, twenty-ninth day. Left camp this morning at 6 o'clock, and marched about five miles over the same flat and desolate prairie; afterwards the country became covered with thickets and chaparral, and then continuing to alternate between chaparral and prairie, more or less open. The river continues on our right, our course having been west and north northwest. The current is quite swift, but not as much so as that of the river at San Antonio. The banks continue to be so high that it is necessary to water the animals by means of buckets. When cut away, they become boggy. Our present camp is a mezquite chaparral in a bend of the river. Grazing today tolerable.
July 13, thirtieth day. Country today seems as yesterday, the ground, here and there, being covered with saline efflorescence. This appears at every few yards along the road, impregnating the water and the grass. At six miles from camp, we carne to the falls of the Pecos, where the water tumbles over several steps of rocks. The total fall is about ten feet. Near our camp tonight there is a pond containing very pure and clear water, but it is also very salt. Wild fowl abound in its vicinity. The river is crossed here by several Indian trails. At this point the depth is about five feet; bottom of gravel, firm and hard. Our fuel today is mezquite brush. Grazing pretty good.
July 14, thirty first day. Road today went through a kind of ravine, the sides being of red sandstone and clay, in thin layers. The soil of the road next becomes sandy, and then full of lime, varying every few miles. At ten miles from camp, the river bends into the road; and in the valley there is very good grazing, and easy access to the water. Two miles from this place, we crossed a very small stream, or rather succession of water-holes, for the water was not running. This we supposed to be Toy at creek, from its situation. The, water was very salt. Ground here was broken, and in wet weather must be very boggy. On the left of the road, further on, there is a succession of pools of very salt water. Country here is more rolling, and more covered with brushwood than near the Horse head crossing.
July 15, thirty second day. Started this morning at 6½ o'clock, and came to this camp, twenty two miles, through a country which, for the first four miles, is somewhat hilly and uneven, and then becomes a level plain, on which there is very good grazing. At twelve miles from camp, came to a pond of extremely salt water, which extended on our right for three miles. At fifteen miles from camp, struck a range of hills of small elevation, running along the road on the left. Country, except for these hills, rolling prairie. Encamped at 3 o'clock in a horse shoe formed by the river, where there was very good grazing, but no wood.
July 16, thirty third day. Left this morning at 6½ o'clock, and marched over a hard, flat road to this came, a distance of sixteen miles. A great part of this road was of sandy soil, and some of it of clay, On our left the ridge of hills still accompanied us. The Pecos is on the right all the way, and always within about a mile of the road. Our course has been variable, as the road follows the bend of the river, which is extremely crooked, and full of horse-shoes." The general direction is north 35° west.
July 17, thirty fourth day. Came to day fourteen miles to Saline creek;
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where, not finding good and sufficient grazing for our animals, we left the road, and again carne to the Pecos, to a place where the grass was tolerable. Banks here were high and steep, so that we were obliged to resort to buckets for watering animals, as everywhere else on this river. Country now becomes hilly, and the road is more sandy. For the first two miles the road was soft and boggy; afterwards, as the country becomes high, road runs alternately over hard, stony ground and. sandy soil. Saline creek was entirely dry where we crossed, though the guide states there is plenty of water some miles nearer its head. The ground in the vicinity is covered with efflorescence of salts. Hills appear now on both sides of the river the road sometimes running over them, and sometimes between them and the river.
July 18, thirty fifth day. Left camp this morning at 7½ o'clock, and marched for ten miles over a prairie more or less undulating. Three miles from camp we came to the first of those deep, precipitous ravines which mark the upper parts of this sinuous course. After the first ten miles, the road enters the hills, through which it winds in all directions, the general course being north 60° west. The road today is even and hard, and mostly over limestone. In several places the earth had caved in, presenting the appearance of unfinished wells. The hills are bare and stony; no trees on the route. Encamped at 2 o'clock on Delaware creek, sixteen miles from the Pecos. Grazing here is excellent; the water of this creek is clear aid beautiful, but slightly impregnated with sulphur.
July 19, thirty sixth day. Spent today in camp, in order to recruit the animals, which are much fatigued.
July 20, thirty seventh day. Encamped again today on the banks of Delaware creek, after a march of twenty-three miles. The road leads through the hills, and is very crooked indeed, taking nearly all directions. Our general course is west to the southern point of Guadalupe. There tire three high peaks of the Sierra Guadalupe which serve as landmarks for a great distance. The soil of the road is sometimes limestone and sometimes sand. Grazing today is very poor indeed, and very little wood to be had. Our camp is a small valley, where there are three fine springs; one is highly impregnated with sulphur, another with salts of soda, while the third is of the best and purest water, suited for the use of man and beast. Grazing at this camp is very good.
July 21, thirty eighth day. Our general course continues west, though we are obliged to take all directions around the spurs of the mountains. Yesterday and today we saw the first dwarf cedars. Wood is very scarce indeed scarcely enough to cook with, and even that brought from a distance, and collected with much trouble. The road today lies very. high, over ridges and spurs of the mountain, but is nevertheless very good. Ten miles from this morning's camp there is a deep ravine, where there is water in holes, but not permanent. Arrived at 1 o'clock at Independence spring, the water of which is very fine, being pure and cold. Here we found the first trees we have seen since we left the Concho. Grazing here is pretty good.
July 22, thirty ninth day. Marched today six miles to a fine spring of pure cold water, at the foot of Guadalupe, and encamped. The spring is about one fourth of a mile to the right of the road, in a corner of the mountains. Here we found excellent grass for the animals, good water,
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and fine large timber, of pine, cedar, serren, &c. The camp was separated from the road by a rocky ravine, which cost us some trouble to cross. The road today is firm and hard, and, as for several days past, lies sometimes high on the ridges, and then again follows the valleys. We are now at the foot of Guadalupe, and the mountains are covered with forests of large timber, and contain many springs of excellent water.
July 23, fortieth day. Spent this day in camp, in order to recruit the animals.
July 24, forty first day. Left camp this morning at 5 o'clock, and cleared the ravine without trouble. About three miles from camp, came to a fine spring, to the right of the road, at the commencement of the descent of the first hill. The descent was very rough, and continued for about two miles down the mountain side. The road continued rocky and rough for seven miles, when it became smoother, and finally deep and sandy. At twenty miles we carne upon a range of hills of pure white sand, extending some distance on the left of the road. At twenty four miles, the dry bed of what seems to have been a salt lake appears. It is a perfectly smooth bed of white sand. The ground was covered with efflorescence of salt. At 1 o'clock, arrived at Ojo del Cuerpo, which is a spring of brackish water in the open prairie. The grazing is very poor, and there is no wood. We found a hole, dug under the bushes by some California party, which furnished us tolerable water. The spring of Ojo del Cuerpo is quite strongly impregnated with sulphur. The road today has been rougher than any we have had since leaving Fredericksburg. Course today north 70 west; distance twenty eight and a half miles.
July 25, forty second day. Left camp today at 2 o'clock p. m., and marched sixteen miles to a place on the prairie where we camped, without water. The grazing at this camp was excellent, as well as for several miles back. The road is excellent, being smooth and hard and very level. We passed several salt, plains, and some lakes of very salt water, about three miles to our left. Some of these plains were dry beds of lakes, and composed of glittering white sand. Reached this place at 6 o'clock is the evening, and encamped. There is no wood to be had here. They distance from Ojo del Cuerpo to Connedos del Alamo is thirty miles-too long a march for one day: so we were forced to make two marches of it.
July 26, forty third day. Left this morning at 5½ o'clock, and marched fourteen miles to the tanks of Connedos Alamo, which were reached at 9½ o'clock. The road was very firm and hard, composed of gravel packed very closely, as was the road yesterday. Rattlesnakes and dog towns again appear in great numbers. Road today is rather more hilly than yesterday; mountains appear on all sides; course to this camp from Ojo del Cuerpo is west. The mountain here is nothing more than a mass of gigantic granite rocks, piled upon each other in every imaginable way.. Water issues from the rock in several places. Outside of the mountain, several wells have been dug by California parties. These wells were full when we passed. Inside the mountain, in a cavern, there is a fine large well of pure water; this is full to overflowing; the water is very cold and: of good flavor. Besides these places, there is a large tank of water oil the western side of the mountain. Grazing here is very good, and plenty of wood to be had.
July 27, forty fourth day. Marched today nine miles to Ojo del Alamo. The road is firm and good, leading through the hills. Wood is very
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scarce, and grazing along the road only tolerable. The water here is high up the mountain side, and is found in several tanks or wells, and is quite difficult to get at, on account of the steepness of the mountain. The wagons could not get nearer than four or five hundred yards. Wood is not to be had here at all, scarcely even brush. Saw today the Organ mountains, and Robbro and Sierra Colorado; they bear from this camp north 80° west, and west.
July 28, forty-fifth day.-Marched today nineteen miles to the Waco mountain. The road was over rolling prairie, having high mountains on the right and left some distance from us. The water here is pure and good, and in great abundance; but it is very difficult of access, as it is in tanks high up the rocky side of the mountain, so that animals cannot get at it, nor can it be brought down to them in buckets. The road to this point is very good; the grazing along the road was also good; but, there is no wood at all to be had. This mountain is composed of immense masses of granite, with very little earth to cover the rocks. In its immediate vicinity a few stunted trees may be found. Leaving this place, we passed through the sierra by a road leading mostly over the dry bed of a mountain torrent, now and then crossing ridges. The rocks rose perpendicularly on each side, and were bare and stratified, sows to have the appearance of regular courses and layers. Some of this rock was of blue limestone; others resembled. granite. This very rough road lasted for six miles, at the end of which we reached the Waco tanks, and encamped. The tanks are situated in caves of large masses of granite rock. There are several of these tanks containing immense quantities of pure cold water. Grazing at this camp is good, and plenty of fuel is to be had. The tank at which we stopped is on the right of the road. There are others on the western side of the mountains.
July 29, forty sixth day. Today we arrived at the Rio Grande, opposite Isleta, after a march of twenty two miles. The road for the first two or three miles is rolling, and accompanied by spurs of the mountain. We left the direct road to El Paso about three miles from the Waco tanks, as the guide reported it impossible to obtain subsistence for animals opposite El Paso. The road till within five miles of the river was of the deepest and most fatiguing sand. The country through which we passed was extremely barren; scarcely any vegetation, except a very little brushwood. Near the river, limestone appears; but still there is no more vegetation. On arriving at the river, the scene changes entirely. There is fine grazing in the bottom, and plenty of large cottonwood timber, besides large cornfields, orchards) and vineyards. Encamped on the island, about one mile from the village of Isleta.
In conclusion, I have to remark that the country from Fredericksburg to Et Paso del Norte, by the route which I have travelled, presents no obstructions to the easy passage of wagons. Grass and water may be had every day, within marches of twenty five miles, except from the head of the Concho to the Pecos-a distance of sixty eight miles, which is entirely without permanent water at present. The character of the country is such, however, as to leave no doubt of the success of attempts to find water by means of wells, sunk at proper intervals. The soil, in many places, is soft and moist, giving promise of water at slight depths. The remainder of the road is sufficiently well watered. In passing through the Guadalupe mountains, we encountered two places which might be much improved
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by a working party, and one place in the Waco mountains though, as they stand, they may be passed without much danger.
After leaving Kickapoo creek, and until arriving at the Concho, it would be well for parties taking this route to keep further to the north than we did, and thus avoid some of the spurs of the mountains lying on the south of Concho river.
The route from Fredericksburg to El Paso might be shorted in several places, so as to lessen the distance at least fifty miles in one place, from Fredericksburg to the San Saba; one between San Saba and Brady's creek; and another between the Pecos and the Guadalupe mountains. To effect this diminution of distance would require a well to be sunk at each of three places between the spots mentioned.
I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
FRANCIS T. BRYAN,
Brevet 1st Lieut. Topographrical Engineers.
Lieut. Col. J. E. JOHNSTON,
Topographical Engineers.
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HEADQUARTERS EIGHTH DEPARTMENT,
San Antonio,
June 9, 1849.
SIR:
You will proceed to make a reconnaissance of the route hence, via Fredericksburg, to El Paso del Norte the same lately passed over by Major Neighbors, Indian agent.
The object of this reconnaissance being to obtain, with perfect accuracy, the best information in reference to a permanent military road from the Gulf of Mexico to El Paso, you are desired to be particular in your examinations and observations, and will make a detailed report accordingly, in order that a comparison may be drawn between this and the route recently explored by Lieutenants Whiting and Smith, having in view the same object.
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After your arrival at El Paso, you will report to Lieut. Col. Johnston, chief of your corps.
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
GEO. DEAS,
Assistant Adjutant General.
Lieutenant BRYAN,
Topographical Engineers.
SAN ANTONIO,
December 28, 1849.
GENERAL:
I have the honor to report that, in the beginning of June last, I was ordered by Brigadier General Harney, then commanding this department, to organize two topographical parties for service between this point and El Paso del Norte-one, to which I was directed to attach myself, "to direct the march of the third infantry to El Paso," by the route discovered by Lieutenants Whiting and Smith the other, to examine that just reported by Major Neighbors. Lieutenant Bryan was detailed for the latter duty, and directed to join for it a party of twenty five or thirty men, mounted and armed. The instructions given by me, to govern him until we should meet on the Rio Grande, were superseded by others issued from department headquarters after 1 left San Antonio. Lieutenant Smith, the senior subaltern, was attached to the other party, on account of his knowledge of the other route. R. A. Howard, esq., surveyor, myself, and about twenty laborers, required to make a practicable road for our provision wagons, with Captain King's company first infantry as escort, made up the party. Captain King was directed, in orders received on the way from department headquarters, to escort Captain French's party from El Paso.
Lieutenant Bryan set out from San Antonio on the 14th June, and reached the Rio Grande, near El Paso, on the 29th July. His route is delineated on the accompanying sketch. His very favorable report is appended. He remained near the post at Doha Ana, until I reached El Paso, when he reported to me.
The other party commenced the duty assigned it on the 13th June, at the point where Wool's road crosses the Rio Frio, and did not complete it until the 8th September, though assisted the greater part of the way by a large working party detailed from the battalion of infantry by Major Van Horne. The road is generally excellent, with abundance of grass and fuel. The itinerary appended will show what the supply of water is. For a minute description of the route, I respectfully refer you to the report of Lieutenant W. F. Smith, herewith submitted. The road marked out for the battalion of the third infantry deviates little (in but two places) from the prescribed route in both cases, to avoid labor and delay, time being very important to the troops, who had their arrangements for winter to make after reaching their destination. This consideration justified me, I thought, in departing from the letter of my orders. The first deviation is between the lower ford of the San Pedro and the Pecos; the other in approaching the Rio Grande, avoiding several rugged mountain passes, by keeping outside of the mountains near the river, and below the Eagle mountain.
While recruiting the teams for the return march, the valley was surveyed,
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from the lower end of the island, below El Paso, to Doha Ana, by Lieutenant Bryan, Mr. Howard, and myself; while a reconnaissance was made by Lieutenant Smith, to ascertain if there is an available pass in the Sacramento mountains. His report is among the accompanying papers.
On the 11th of October, the party of twenty-five men, besides two Delaware Indians, engaged as guides, set out on the return march. In order to examine the country between the Rio Grande and the heads of the Colorado and Brazos, I took the northern route; but, in the middle of October, the winter set in with such severity, that I thought the lives of our mules depended on turning southward. The men, also, were equipped for summer. Therefore, instead of crossing the Pecos, we marched down it to the southern road, which was followed to San Antonio, where the party arrived on the 23d of November.
Mr. Howard and myself, with ten men, turned eastwardly from the head of the San Pedro, hoping to find a direct practicable route from that point to Wool's road about Vandenburg, both to shorten the distance and avoid the rough and uncertain road along the San Pedro. We found the country between that river and the western branches of the Nueces (about sixty miles) quite destitute of water; otherwise, practicable. The distance to El Paso by the southern route is six hundred and seventy-three, by the northern six hundred and forty six miles. The first distance might be diminished fifteen or twenty miles by the labor of twenty men, fifteen or twenty days, between the San Pedro and the Pecos. The other might be shortened as much, or more, by the labor of a small working party on the Guadalupe mountain for a few days, and by requiring the officer who commands the first train to straighten the road by cutting off the unnecessary curves, which now increase every day's march by two or three miles. Another improvement would be, to follow the eastern bank of the Pecos, instead of the western.
By referring to the accompanying sketch, you will see that both the routes now used very far exceed the direct distance to El Paso. It is so important to diminish, as much as possible, the present enormous cost of transporting supplies to the posts on and near the upper Rio Grande, that I strongly recommend the employment, as soon as the spring commences, of some of the disposable topographical officers in the department in the examination of the Rio Grande above Eagle pass, and in exploring the southern portion of the country between the Pecos and Rio Grande, in order to continue the road in a westerly direction from the head of the Sari Felipe, or the lower ford of the San Pedro. Besides the probability of materially shortening the distance, this change offers the further advantages of connecting with the navigation of the river, should it be found available ; forming a means of communication from point to point along the frontier, which will very soon be required; and promoting the settlement of the valley of the Rio Grande, the most extensive tract fit for settlement west of the San Pedro.
The two positions occupied by the third infantry, near El Paso, are in a direct line one nineteen, and the other thirty seven miles south of the point at which the thirty second parallel crosses the Rio Grande. Any mounted force stationed in that vicinity, to prevent incursions of the Indians into Mexico, should be so placed, I respectfully suggest, as to be able to operate headily on either side of the river, and therefore above the southern boundary of New Mexico.
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We crossed many Indian trails leading into Mexico only two, however, which seem to be very much used. One, crossing the Pecos at the Horse head crossing, and the southern road at the Comanche spring, leads to the Rio Grande, about eighty miles below Presidio del Norte. The other, touching the heads of the western branches of the Nueces, crosses the southern road at the head of the Las Moras.
As you have done me the honor to ask what, in my opinion, are the best arms for mounted troops on this frontier, I strongly recommend those, modified, with which the men who accompanied me were equipped-the rifle for use on foot and at a distance, and the revolver for close fight. A steel rifle, of the length and weight of the cavalry carbine, and made with the skill to which American gunsmiths have attained, will have a range of four or five hundred yards. With the picket bullet, Colt's five chambered revolver, made for the round bullet, shoots with more force and accuracy than any other pistol, and, worn at the belt, is less cumbrous than the sabre; while the repeating principle makes it more effective in Indian warfare than the cavalry pistol and sabre. The pistols furnished to the government by Mr. Colt are inferior, in every respect, to what the Texans call fine shooters." To admit the picket bullet, the cylinders are necessarily so long as to give inconvenient weight and destroy the balance of the weapon; and the round ball is thrown by the same pistol with mach the most force and accuracy. I therefore suggest a return to the old pattern.
Most respectfully, your obedient servant,
J. E. JOHNSTON,
Capt. Top. Eng., Lt. Col. U. S. A.
Major GENERAL BROOKE,
Commanding 8th Department.
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A creek about midway.
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SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS,
January 28, 1550.
SIR:
Orders, of which I submit the following copy, were received by me at the place and date set forth therein:
[SPECIAL ORDERS No. 50.]
HEADQUARTERS EIGHTH DEPARTMENT,
San Antonio
, September 11, 1849.
Agreeably to the recommendation contained in the letter of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Johnston, chief topographical engineer within the eighth department, dated July 12, 1849, Lieutenant MicHler, with his "
Rain water generally to he found between the last two places.
Water frequently runs four or five miles nearer the Pecos.
This is the first running water, which is sometimes found five or six miles nearer.
Sinks above the direct road.
More than two miles to a spring in the foot of the mountain.
Crossing to the island below El Paso.
Military post.
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party, will proceed to the examination of the route from the upper valley of the south branch of Red river to the Rio Pecos. Should there be evidences of a serious hostility on the part of the Indians, likely to endanger the lives of the party, Lieutenant Michler will retrace his steps, and return to this place for further instructions.
By order of Brevet Major General Brooke:
GEO. DEAS,
Assistant Adjutant General.
Having proceeded to execute the above instructions, I have now the honor to report their completion, and respectfully furnish the following report of my reconnaissance, together with the accompanying map:
Upon leaving San Antonio, my escort consisted of fourteen men-all civilians. I decided upon taking wagons along, as far as possible, as they would afford the best test of the practicability of a road. The nearest post to the point at which my examination was to commence is Fort Washita in the Indian territory. Apart from the fact of its being a good startiing-point from which to commence the survey, it possessed the adiar Cages of enabling me to renew my supplies of provisions, and of refitting out my expedition with animals, or whatever might be needed, before finally getting beyond the reach of the settlements. In consideration of these circumstances, I proceeded first to Fort Washita the distance being about three hundred and eighty miles. The road travelled was upon the extreme line of settlements, although within the present line of military posts. For the first hundred miles, the country has become pretty well settled; for the rest of the way, farms were only met with at intervals of ten and fifteen miles. With but few exceptions, the road was an excellent one throughout; the country was generally a fine grazing one, and well watered, fine bold streams being crossed at short distances. With the exception of post oak and one or two other varieties of oak, no timber was to be met with, except immediately upon the banks of streams. The principal, and I might say the only, produce of the farms is corn; the demand being limited, there is but a Wall supply-each farmer raising merely sufficient for his own use and for the few passing travellers. Upon approaching Red river, some few fields of cotton were seen. The villages along the road are mostly small, containing perhaps some half' dozen dwellings, the latter but poor and indifferent. Even the most trivial comforts are unknown to a greater portion of them. Within a few miles of Red river, more signs of industry and ease are visible, and you seem transported in a new land. Beyond this last river, among the Chickasaws, you meet with some fine farms, and in all a degree of comfort which does credit to them.
In consequence of some heavy rains, a few slight detentions occurred; but we at length reached Fort Washita in safety. I was here detained for several days, after renewing my outfit, by a rise in the False Washita. Constant rumors of Indian hostilities reaching me, I here increased flay party, which now numbered twenty one men. With this escort, and with four wagons, loaded with provisions for two months and a half, I was in readiness for a start.
To Captain Marcy, fifth infantry, who had arrived at Washita but two days previous to my setting out, I am indebted for information concerning
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the country passed over by him, knowing that the route to be pursued by me would, sooner or later, intersect his. He had come from the Pecos, but had kept south of the Red river until he reached Preston. I attempted to obtain the services of his valuable guide, Black Beaver, a Delaware, but failed, as he had so recently returned from off a long expedition. I consequently had to proceed without a guide. The courses and distances from Fort Washita to the Pecos were actually taken, and will be found in the notes of the survey.
The Washita river having fallen, we proceeded to cross it-the entire day being occupied in accomplishing the crossing of the wagons. To be better able to impart correct ideas of the country traversed, I shall extract parts from my journal of each day's march:
November 9, 1849. This morning, started from Fort Washita. The first two miles was through the Washita bottom; the soil rich, red clay mixed with sand, being excellent cotton land; the timber cottonwood, hickory, dogwood, elm, sycamore, and post oak. The road lay partly on a post-oak ridge, dry, and of a hard, sandy nature. The Washita river, when I reached it, was still high, although fordable on horseback. When low even, it is difficult to cross, in consequence of the existence of quick-sands in the bed of the river. This stream is about three hundred miles in length, varying in breadth constantly, and about forty yards wide at the ford. It is frequently the cause of the great rise in the Red river. The water is of a bright vermilion color, and its taste brackish. They speak of erecting a bridge across it; the hanks are high and favorable for accomplishing it. On the west side, the bottom land is about half a mile in width., very dense and thick, and of the same nature. The road then passes over a slightly-rolling prairie until it reaches the Lower Cross Timbers. To the left are seen the low hills along the Red river; and to the right one continuous prairie, with here and there mots of post oak. Several small creeks were passed; the country seemingly well watered; the timber growing very thick along them. The soil was of a sandy nature throughout the entire distance. The prairie grass was already very dry at this season, the species of gramma being most abundant; here and there spots of mezquite. Saw several varieties of cactus today. At the edge of the Cross Timbers, we found an unusual formation for this country: upon the slopes of the prairie lay large rocks, all of them sharp and of a slab like form, set in the ground at angles, edges upright, and all highly fossiliferous, but no common direction given them. The distance from the Washita river to the edge of the Cross Timbers is about nineteen miles. Encamped on Sandy creek.
November 10 to November 16. The road for the next eight miles still continued in the Lower Cross Timbers. This body of timber commences as far south as the Brazos, and crosses the country in a northeast direction. To pass through it, we were compelled to follow old Indian trails, cutting our way wherever the wagons could not pass. Its breadth, by the road, was ten miles. The timber generally grows pretty thick, and upon a sandy soil. Post oak, white oak, Spanish oak, black-jack, and other varieties of oak, together with elm, black and white hickory, form the principal growth of the Cross Timbers. The country is rolling through out their extent. Many small creeks traverse them, and fine walnut and sycamore grow upon their banks, and often cedar is found along them. The road laid down on the map as the 11 Oil Spring road" leads to a
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spring which its name implies; the oil is said to resemble naptha, and patients already resort to it for its beneficial effects. The country near the edge of the Cross Timbers became more rolling; and from the highest points the Red river could be easily seen. The Lower are separated from the Upper Cross Timbers by a high rolling prairie fifteen miles in breadth, by our course. This prairie is open and entirely destitute of timber; the soil is rich until you again reach the Cross Timbers, when it becomes loose sand. The upper are vastly inferior to the lower, both in kind and quality of timber; the former are composed of nothing but scrubby post oak.
In breadth they are fifteen miles, the main body extending west as far as Mud creek. The banks of the streams traversing them are generally of* loose sand, and it is difficult for wagons to cross them; at almost every one of them we were compelled to double teams, and cut away the banks, in order to cross them. The water is generally fresh, with the exception of Salt creek. They are subject to frequent and sudden risings, but soon run out. Upon the banks of one of them we were detained an entire day, in consequence of a heavy rain on the night of the 9th. At Walnut bayou, left the road to Warren's trading post, and followed an old Indian trail to the mouth of Mud creek. The trading house was broken up a year or two ago, and two or three old Cherokees alone remain at the spot. We have passed several Indian villages, principally belonging to the Caddo and Bilusi tribes; they have settled down to raising corn, and with their cows and poulty seem quite domesticated. After cutting our road through the Upper Cross Timbers, we reached the Red river, and on the evening of the 15th encamped on its banks, within half a mile of the mouth of Mud creek, and distant sixty-one miles from Fort Washita. The banks of the river were low. The water was falling rapidly; and, from the extent of drift, there must have been a severe freshet. Unable to tell the natural bed of the river. There was some fine large and heavy timber upon the bank of the river-hackberry, mulberry, cottonwood, Spanish oak, black-jack, and willow forming the principal growth. The grazing near the river is, however, extremely bad.
November 16to November 23. -Upon examination of Mud creek, we found that it was impossible to be passed, except by bridging it, or by rafting. The banks are steep bluffs, and the bed of the stream exceedingly boggy, although not deep. It seems to be back water from Red river, and, from its appearance and quality, well deserves the name which it bears. The water is brackish, consisting of clay and water. The timber on it was scarce, and of the same kind as on the main river. In order to be passable at all timer, it must be bridged. As the river was constantly falling, we found that, by means of a large sand bar. extending above and below the mouth of the creek, we could at length be able to pass in that manner; fords were found from the sand bar to the shore at both extremities. By thus keeping up the middle of the river on the bar, we managed to get beyond Mud creek, after aday's tedious work. In making the trail, we very nearly lost two of our mules in the quicksands. The road lay just over a flat prairie for several miles, the river remaining in sight; it then passed over a high rolling prairie, the divide between the Red river and Mud creek, both streams being in view, and running parallel to each other. Within ten miles of again touching the river, the country becomes a perfect dead level. Encamped on the evening of the 22nd, on the south side of Red river, two miles above the mouth of the Little Wichita, and one
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hundred and four miles from Fort Washita. Passed two beautiful streams of clear running water, together with several smaller ones, since leaving Mud creek. To the north of us, we could still see traces of the Upper Cross Timbers, but no timber immediately along the road, excepting in small mots and along the streams. In crossing the latter we always found good fords, being led to them most generally by Indian trails. The further west we travelled, the better grazing we found-the gramma, sedge, and buffalo grass the most abundant, but the mezquite constantly becoming j more frequent. By the time we reached this point of Red river, having satisfied myself' of its position with respect to the two Wichitas by examinations up and down the river, I found that the water had considerably fallen, and was now at a fordable depth. After remaining upon its north bank one day to recruit my animals and to seek a ford, a second day was occupied in crossing it. The same difficulty arose from quicksands as before; and it was only by dividing up the loads into several, and crossing portions at a time, that we could get across. At this point there seem to have been several bottoms-descending high bluff banks from the first to the second, and each successive one a few feet lower than the preceding. In leaving the channel of the river, you first come upon a sand flat, the bed of the river in high water, with nothing upon it but large quantities of drift; then the first bottom land of the river, containing rich alluvial soil, sand mixed with red clay, and timbered along the ,edge near the flat with young cotton wood and willow. This bottom bears evidence of being frequently overflowed. Then comes the second, separated from the first generally by a steep bluff bank, the latter intersected by gullies and ravines, impassable at most places for wagons. High sand hills are found on the edge of this bottom. At the foot of the bluffs are fine springs and lakes, well timbered, and ,good grass along them. This bottom is also subject to overflows. The river was then rapidly falling from a high freshet; but, notwithstanding, it was filled with. sand bars, and but small and narrow channels for the water to pass. At the ford, the breadth 4 the first bottom from bluff to bluff was about a mile and a half; that of tire river bed, at any ordinary rise of the water, a half a mile; and that of the regular channel, about a hundred yards-the depth of the water about two feet and a half: at most points the channel was much narrower, but too deep for a ford. It was impossible to cross immediately at the mouth of the Little Wichita. Thus far the country has been well adapted to a road. The Grass Timbers, and large bends in the river, have caused our route to be somewhat tortuous; but with time, and a small working party, a perfectly straight road could be made. It has been watered at convenient points-the water mostly fresh, with the exception of Red river, which is a brackish red stream.
My instructions, as stated in the letter of recommendation referred to, were to commence the examination at the mouth of the Little Wichita; and at this point I had now arrived.
November23 to December 4. On the morning of the 23d of November, we left the Red river a most uninteresting one to the gaze, presenting nothing pleasing to look upon. On the evening of December 4, encamped upon the main fork of the Brazos: the distance from tyre former to the latter, about ninety six miles. The route for this entire distance lay upon the divide between the Big and Little Wichita, with the exception of the last ten miles, which crossed the divide between the Wichitas and the
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Brazos. It gasses over a slightly rolling prairie, with intervals for tarries of perfect dead level flats. A more beautiful country for roads of any hind cannot be found. Near the Red river the soil is slightly sandy, and you meet with some few post Oak mots. It then becomes a fine mezquite country, well timbered with mezquite, and for miles perfectly level; and even when a rolling prairie, the elevations and depressions are small. The grass at first is principally gramma, and the ordinary sedge, and their species; but their come the fine early mezquite and the winter mezquite. The whole extent was well watered by numerous branches of the two Wichitas. The country appeared to have been flooded by previous heavy rains, and numerous water holes were met at short intervals. Most of the streams possessed a slightly brackish taste: all of them were well timbered.
The Big Wichita, I have been informed, rises in the old Wichita mountains. It is much larger and rises much further west than any of the other branches of Red river. Upon leaving the divide and approaching it, the ground is exceedingly rough arid uneven: deep gullies had been washed through the clay and sand, and numerous small mounds had been formed by the swift currents during the high freshets to which this stream must be subject. From the amount of drift scattered about, it must rise to a very great height, and its currents become remarkably swift. On this side the banks were high sand bluffs, but on the opposite side they were much lower, and a gradual descent to the edge of the water. Its breadth is about thirty yards, and depth only a few feet, with no very strong current. The water is of the same color as that of Red river, and tasted very brackish and bitter; young cottonwood seems to be the only timber which grows along it. Within a few yards of its banks you find many lakes or ponds, the water of which is much more agreeable to the taste. The Indian name for this stream is "Ah he we wo nah:" translated into English, it signifies "Pond creek."
The Little Wichita heads within six miles of the waters of the main fork of the Brazos the Trinity heading up against both of these streams, and but a few miles from both. The divide between the two Wichitas is also veil, narrow at the same point, the two being separated from each other by about eight miles. The first stream is about one hundred and twenty five or thirty miles in length; its breadth, at different points at which I saw it, varied from ten to fifteen yards; its depth was but a few feet, and its bottom very boggy. The bottom land is about one hundred yards in width, and heavily timbered with elm, Hackberry, and cottonwood. A strip of land, about a mile in width, along this stream, presents a peculiar appearance, and has been subject to some powerful influence: deep gullies, low ridges, innumerable small mounds, and hillocks of every conceivable shape, thrown together without order or arrangement, present to the eye quite a contrast to the central portion of the divide. The soil is here a reddish sandy clay. Limestone is found lying about, and the ground is covered with gravel. The whole is the result of heavy rains, and the freshets which have been occasioned by them. They all can be avoided by continuing upon the divide. The distance is thus slightly increased, but the road would be almost perfectly level, and no labor would be required. The clearness of the waters of the Little Wichita forms a striking contrast to those of the lower Wichita; it is a clear running stream, although the water tasted very slightly brackish. Almost the entire distance from the Red river,
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the two Wichitas were constantly in sight, and could easily be traced by the lines of timber along them.
Crossing the divide of the Brazos, you travel over a continuation of the mezquite range, and come across the Brazos without the slightest indication of its presence. No timber along its banks as far as the eye can see: you stumble upon it without any forewarning. High bluff' banks along its very edge conceal it. until you reach the top of them. Its channel is about fifty yards in width, and bounded but by a small strip of bottom land. We easily found a ford, which we were enabled to cross without labor, its depth being about two feet. Owing to its red sandy bottom, the waters have a reddish appearance, though clear, and free from mud. The Indians call. this stream the Colorado, and much more deservedly than the one bearing that name on the map of Texas. The water is exceedingly brackish. Small streams of fresh water are found emptying into it, which will serve every purpose. In the bottom was good grazing of sedge and water grass, and on top of the bluff's again spread out the mezquite flats. Near the Red river the formation seemed to be sandstone,, but on the Brazos we found some beautiful limestone. The bluffs were white with the large limestone rocks that lay strown on their surface. Lay by on the 3rd to recruit my mules. Since leaving Red river we have met with several tribes of Indians Shawnees, Delawares, Tongues, &c. The Comanches and Tongues were united in chasing the buffalo above the Big Wichita; they allowed us to pass unmolested. During the last few days of November we had some extremely cold weather, and our animals suffered severely; the grass became deadened by frosts, and contained but little nourishment.
December 4 to December 16. On rising the bluffs of the main fork of the Brazos, we again found a continuation of the mezquite flats, over which we travelled until we reached the head of the Double Mountain fork of the Brazos. Day after day the country was almost perfectly level: one exception alone can be made, a distance of four or five miles, over some high sand hills, perfectly destitute of grass, and covered with low scrub oak; the rest was either mezquite fiats or a very slightly rolling mezquite country the distance from the Brazos, one hundred and eighteen miles. The whole country was well watered by branches of the Double Mountain fork and the Clear fork of the Brazos: the only distance without water of any length was twenty miles. There was but little timber upon these streams upon first leaving the main fork; but the further we advanced the snore we found elm being the princip 1 growth. The whole country was well timbered with mezquite, but most of it had been killed by prairie fires. The general course of the Double Mountain fork is northeast, both this stream andthe main fork running very nearly parallel. As its waters are fresh, and leading at the same time near tile waters of the Colorado, it possesses much greater advantages than the main fork for the purposes of travel. It is fine clear stream, although of no' great width; at ninny places it runs with a swift current, although frequently standing in large holes or lakes, and in these places exceedingly deep. It has a gravel bottom, and in a few places a hard limestone bottom. The banks are generally high, the prairie extending to the edge of them. At. a distance of forty five miles from the Brazos we first struck Captain Marcy's trail, and then commenced following it. About seventy miles from the Brazos, the country, which had hitherto been very mountainous, began to assume some new
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features; high mounds and low ridges of hills Came in sight, and presented a new scene. The road, however, left them mostly to our right, and they continued to extend to the head of the Double Mountain fork. They offer not the slightest objection to the road, our wagons passing along without any trouble or work. They are low, and scarcely bear the name of a hill, except in comparison with the level country about them: they are a succession of spurs or oblong mounds, overlapping each other, separated by deep ravines and gullies. Upon ascending them, you see some distance in advance of you two high peaks, forming prominent landmarks, and near the head of the Double Mountain fork, from which this fork derives its name. They continue constantly in sight, and your course is directed towards them. Limestone abounds upon these hills. The live oak and cedar first are seen upon them. A second range, parallel to the first, is seen at some distance further off. A low country intervenes between them, and appears to be the basin of the main fork. During this interval of time, we suffered most severely from cold northers, heavy rains, and terrible sleets. Our mules had already become very weak, in consequence of living upon grass alone -the latter having lost most of its nourishment from the killing frosts which night after night lay upon the ground. The cold affected the rest; and nine of our animals were either frozen to death or left so stiff with cold as to be unable to be moved. Our loss would have been greater had not the men divided their blankets with their animals, and built immense fires, to protect them as much as possible from the cold. We found it necessary to change the party from mounted men to foot men, and replace the wagon mules by saddle mules. The commencement of the winter setting in so severely, we knew not what might come to pass ere we returned to the settlements.
December 16 to December 23. Upon leaving the head of the Double Mountain fork, we commenced crossing the divide separating the waters of the Brazos from those of the Colorado a distance of about eightmiles. The country here undergoes a complete change. You now meet with high rolling praries, arid, and destitute of timber, and scarcely any grass but of the most miserable kind. Occasionally you cross low sand hills, containing some low cedar and scrubby oak. This country extends to the "Big springs of Colorado," these latter distant from the head of the Double Mountain fork about fifty six miles. Several fine branchesof the Colorado were crossed, the largest of which was the Salt fork. With the exception of the latter, they were all streams of fresh water; their banks were high, but they were all of no great width. On the 21st, we encamped at the "Big springs of the Colorado," and remained there the following day to rest our animals. These springs are very large, and a considerable quantity of water is obtained from them; they cover a space of about twenty feet square, and in some places the water is fifteen feet in depth by measurement. They are walled in by a ledge of high rocks, forming a concave surface, within which the basin of the springs lies. The water is impregnated with lime, and is cool, fresh, and perfectly clear. It is carried away in a bold, running stream, which in a short distance sinks below the surface. The rocks which line the waters are a conglomerate limestone, formed by numerous shells, united by a natural cement, the character of which is silicious. The surface of the ground around it is covered with angular pieces of limestone. High mounds and hills surround the springs. The soil is chiefly sand; the grass is poor;
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no timber but young mezquite and cedar; some scrubby elm borders the stream. This spot has been a favorite place for the camping grounds of Indians; numerous large, well beaten trails lead from it in different directions.
December 23 to December 31. On the morning of the 23d, we left the "Big springs." Our road now lay over a high arid plain, perfectly destitute of timber scarcely even a sprig of mezquite, except in the neighborhood of water holes. For miles, the country would be a perfect level, and then a slightly rolling prairie; it seemed destitute of all growth of any kind, and nothing to be seen upon it excepting the antelope and wolf and prairie dog town. The grass was scattering, and miserably poor; occasionally a small spot of mezquite was found. This continued until the commencement of the low sand hills, a distance from the "Big springs" of about seventy six miles. At the distance of twenty one miles were the "Mustang springs." There was nothing to indicate their presence; a few scattering chaparral bushes were growing within half a mile of them, but in proximity to the water were no trees or bushes of any kind. A low prairie of about a hundred acres in extent, in form very nearly circular, and bounded by low bluffs, composed principally of white limestone, contains several small ponds of water, one or two pretty deep, and the rest not containing much water. The taste of the water is flat and sweet, being slightly brackish. From the number of trails leading to there, and the number of mustangs which came to water there, and the quantity of flag and other vegetable matter growing in and about them, I judge the water to be permanent. Several springs were found bubbling up in the ponds. Upon reaching the sand hills, we found, for the first twelve miles, low ridges of sand, running parallel to each other, plaids of the same kind interspersed between them, with small hillocks. The sand was here of a black color. Then come the white sand hills, which are really an object of curiosity. They are a perfect miniature Alps of sand the latter perfectly white and clean: in the midst of them you see summit after summit spreading out in every direction, not a sign of vegetation upon them nothing but sand piled upon sand. They form a belt two or three miles in width, and extend many miles in a northwest direction. But a matter of the greatest surprise is to find large water holes among them: they are found at the base of the hills, are large, deep, and contain most excellent water, cool, clear, and pleasant. The water is permanent. A great deal of vegetable matter and young willow trees are found on their banks. This was the first water we found since leaving the Mustang spring a distance of sixty seven miles without any: during this entire distance we saw no indications of any whatever. Instead of going above the sand hills, we crossed them, following a large Indian trail over them; and then, taking up our course, we reached the Pecos in twenty two miles. The first two miles was over the sand hills; and a difficult undertaking it was to cross our wagons. The country was then a slightly rolling prairie, a hard, sandy soil. A thick growth of chaparral extended from the sand hills to the bottom land of the Pecos. The grass was indifferent, and the soil poor and unproductive. A low ridge bounded the bottom land, the latter being about a mile wide where we struck the Pecos. The course of the stream was nearly east and west; its width was about forty feet; and, being too deep to ford, we encamped on its left bank. It answered well the description given me by
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others, and was truly a "rolling mass of red mud" nothing to indicate its presence but a line of high reeds growing upon its banks. Along its banks you find numerous lakes, the water of which is clear, but still more brackish than even that of the river. On December 30, we reached the Pecos, the point at which our reconnaissance was to end a distance of four hundred and ninety two miles from Fort Washita. From this examination we may conclude that, for the distance passed over, a more advantageous country for roads of any hind cannot be found for hundreds of miles almost a perfect level, well watered the greater portion, and well timbered. It